Introduction

Over June and July 2025, we did a 7-week trip from Helsinki, Finland to Istanbul, Turkiye, travelling through the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. We hadn’t previously visited most of the countries on our proposed route, so there were going to be a lot of firsts.

The trip took us from Finland to Estonia then to Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia, Hungary, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria and finishing in Turkiye. Most of our trip was in countries that had previously been part of the USSR or members of the Warsaw Pact, the countries behind the Iron Curtain, though nowadays most are members of the European Union. It was going to be interesting to see how much had happened in the intervening years since the collapse of communism in Europe.

As usual, we planned it all ourselves, our preferred approach to travel. The next five posts will break the journey down into digestible chunks and show that such a trip is something most travellers can do, including older travellers.

Helsinki

We arrived in Helsinki in early June. It was not quite summer yet with daily temperatures in the low to mid-teens. We had four full days to explore the city. Our initial plan was to spend one day checking out the sights of central Helsinki; one day visiting Suomenlinna Fortress Island; a day trip to the historical town of Porvoo and a day at the nearby Nuuksio National Park.

Unfortunately, on our last day, which was to be Nuuksio NP, it rained heavily, so the park was off the program. This meant another day exploring Helsinki, which proved to be a good option as there was plenty more to see.

Central Helsinki

Central Helsinki is very walkable, which makes it possible to visit a lot of attractions without having to use public transport. We fitted a lot into the two and a bit days we spent exploring the city, so we’ll keep the next section brief. We’ve listed each sight with just a short comment and a picture or two.

Kauppatori (Market Square)

A good place to start a first-time visit to Helsinki is the Market Square. There are some permanent markets there, with more stalls available in summer than winter.

Plenty of food stalls.

Vanha Kauppahalli (Old Market Hall)

This is a striking building next to Market Square and dates back to 1889.

Inside there are a variety of traditional Finnish foods.

We gravitated to the legendary korvapuusti (cinnamon buns). They didn’t disappoint.

Esplanadi

In the same precinct is Esplanadi, a small, pleasant green space.

Statues of various important Finnish figures adorn the park.

Uspenski Cathedral

This nearby cathedral cuts an imposing figure perched on a hill overlooking the city.

It is Helsinki’s main orthodox cathedral.

From here there are good views of Helsinki Cathedral.

Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square

Originally built from 1830 to 1852 in honour of Tsar Nicholas of Russia, the then Grand Duke of Finland. It is a Finnish Evangelical Lutheran Church.

It sits on one side of Senate Square which also includes the Government Palace and the University of Helsinki.

Allas Sea Pools

This sauna and spa complex has both fresh and seawater pools and a range of sauna options.

We figured, “when in Finland do as the Fins”, which means sauna, a national obsession.

Not being regular sauna aficionados, we found the Sauna Etiquette handout very useful.

Ateneum Art Museum

This is part of the National Gallery and displays some of the country’s most revered artists.

albert edelfelt is one of finland’s most revered artists

Other Helsinki Sights

All of the aforementioned sights are in or around Kruununhaka District and the City Centre and easily visited on foot. But there is plenty more to see in adjoining suburbs in this walkable city.

Kaivopuisto

This is a seaside park which is very popular with locals.

It has great views of the Baltic Sea.

A bit too cool for a dip.

Tahtitorninvuori

This small hilltop park includes an 1834 observatory.

Löyly

Löyly means ‘steam’ or ‘the heat of sauna’ and is an urban sauna and restaurant complex.

Huvilakatu

This is Helsinki’s most photographed street. The art nouveau buildings are the attractions.

Amos Rex

Amos Rex is an underground art museum built inside an old bus station.

There was a quirky exhibition happening when we visited.

Don’t ask us to explain what it was about.

Iso Roobertinkatu

This is a pedestrian street in the Punavuori district. It has lots of restaurants and bars.

Finnish Museum of Natural History

The name’s on the tin – natural history.

Lots of dinosaur skeletons amongst other things.

Kamppi Chapel

This is a conical wooden chapel which promotes the virtue of silence.

Helsinki Art Museum (HAM)

This has more interesting modern Finnish art.

We were lucky that, on the day we visited HAM, the Silent Chapel and the Natural History Museum, it was Helsinki Day, and all these attractions were free entry.

Kaisaniemi Botanical Gardens

These gardens are an impressive collection of native and exotic plants.

It was very green and wet when we visited.

Each of the various glasshouses contain a different climatic niche.

The giant water lilies were noteworthy.

Temppeliaukion Church – Rock Church

This circular church is carved inside an enormous rock.

the church’s roof and the rock it’s carved from

It opened in 1969.

All of these Helsinki attractions were visited in two and a half days of walking the city. If we’d had longer, we would’ve then added the Designmuseo, National Museum of Finland, Sibelius Monument and the Olympic Stadium, so there’s plenty to see and do in Helsinki.

Suomenlinna Sea Fortress

Ferries leave from Market Square for the 15-minute trip to Suomenlinna Sea Fortress.

The sea fortress is Helsinki’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site and is composed of eight islands.

Construction started in 1748 under the Swedes as a defence against Russia.

There are lots of museums and other historical buildings on the island.

There is also a church.

A boatyard.

And various cafes and shops.

We walked across the island to the Kings Gate.

There are some impressive fortifications on the southwest coast.

We spent around three hours there.

It is a great option for a day trip from Helsinki.

Porvoo

Porvoo is Finland’s second-oldest town, after Turku, founded in the 14th century. It’s an easy day trip from Helsinki, 52kms (one hour bus ride) away.

The historical buildings of the old town are much photographed.

Porvoo sits on the Porvoo River (Porvoonjoki) just inland from the Baltic Sea.

Rust-red storehouses line the river and are also much photographed.

Porvoo is the birthplace of national poet Johan Runeberg, and there are many references to him around the town. This includes his own favourite cake, now named Runeberg Cake.

A short walk out of town leads to Iso Linnamaki (Castle Hill).

It gets its name from the 12th century wooden castle built here by the Swedes.

Unfortunately, there is little evidence of its existence today, but it’s a nice spot for a stroll.

There are lots more to Porvoo. Here’s a link to the official visitporvoo.fi site.

Conclusion

We really enjoyed our few days in Helsinki. We didn’t have strong expectations beforehand and were pleasantly surprised at how much these was to see and do. And as mentioned we accessed all the city sights described here on foot. Helsinki also has an excellent public transport system, so getting about is easy.

a park in helsinki - we didn’t try to learn any finnish

Our next stop was the Baltic States, starting with a two-and-a-half-hour ferry trip from Helsinki to Tallinn, Estonia. But that will have to wait until our next post.

Ken