Introduction

In our last post on Estonia, we finished in the south of the country in the town of Pärnu. In this post we continue our road trip south into Latvia. We knew little about Latvia before our visit. What we found was some fascinating medieval castles, a huge ostentatious palace, a wonderful, green national park and a capital city with plenty to offer.

Cēsis

Our first stop was the town of Cēsis.

The town’s star attraction is its well-restored medieval castle.

It was founded by Livonian knights in 1214. In 1577 the Russian tsar Ivan the Terrible sacked it.

After paying our entrance fee we were provided with a candle-lit lantern. This certainly adds to the feeling of authenticity as you explore the castle’s nooks and crannies.

A lot of effort has been made to bring the castle’s history to life. In particular some very clever holograms tell their personal stories of life in the castle and different important events.

There are good views of the surrounding town from the castle tower.

The grounds around the castle are also worth checking out.

We visited the traditional garden.

At the front of the castle site is an 18th century manor house which houses a museum.

We also went for a walk around the town to see some of the other historic buildings.

Here are links to the castle’s and the Cēsis Tourism’s websites.

Sigulda

A short drive from Cēsis is the town of Sigulda. This is the best location for accessing Latvia’s largest national park – Gauja National Park.

Gauja National Park

Our main motivation for coming here was to do a day walk in the park. There were many options, but we chose a 10.5 km loop walk along the river through thick forest. The walk started at the Sigulda Adventures Cable Car Station, on the town side of the Gauja River.

We took the short cable car ride to the other side.

It provided great views of the river and forest.

The cable car’s arrival point is close to Krimulda Manor.

It was built in 1822.

We walked passed the manor’s out-buildings on our way to the national park.

A useful interpretation sign showed that we’d arrived at its beginning.

We followed the trail through the wet, green forest.

Down near the river there are numerous caves.

After several kilometres we crossed back over the river via a suspension bridge.

From the bridge there were more good river views.

The track has several options for climbing steep steps to viewpoints.

This shot was taken from one called the Emperor’s Chair.

Back at river level the trail continues.

Occasional local wildlife appeared, notably toads and giant snails enjoying the wet weather.

Eventually we arrived back at our starting point.

For more information about Gauja National Park click here.

Turaida Castle

Turaida Museum Reserve as it’s officially known, is Latvia’s most visited museum. Its centrepiece is the castle, with its origins dating back to the 11th century.

There is much more to the reserve than just the castle.

After paying our entrance fee we took a walk around the extensive estate grounds. The estate grew up around the castle and supported its operations.

We came across a stone building that had been used to breed and keep fish.

Further on we came to a building that had housed the so-called Corvee Peasants. These were locals who were required to work for the estate from Monday to Friday each week, before returning to their farms on weekends.

This system continued until the 1960s!

The building is now a museum.

Eventually we made our way to the castle compound.

The brick castle’s construction started in 1214.

From high up in the castle there were more impressive views of the river.

And of the grounds below.

Turaida was a very worthwhile visit. Here’s a link to their website.

A Few More Attractions of Sigulda

There was more to Sigulda than we’d expected.

We spent a couple of hours at a location close to the cable car station, firstly looking around what’s called the New Castle, built 1878.

Then the much older castle at the rear of the site.

And a nearby church.

Also, the Walking Stick Park. The walking stick is the symbol of the town and dates back to the 19th century when visitors were encouraged to buy a souvenir walking stick.

And some weird local public art.

Here is a link to the official Sigulda Tourism website which we found very useful.

Riga

Back in Bryan (our hire car) we drove to our next stop, the nation’s capital Riga.

Like its Baltic cousins Tallinn and Vilnius, Riga has an interesting and well-restored old town, the Vecriga. It is very walkable. Here are a few highlights.

St Peter’s Church and Observation Deck

A visit to St Peter’s is a must.

This 800-year-old Gothic church has a modern lift that takes visitors up the 72m steeple to an observation platform. From here there are magnificent 360-degree views of Riga.

The National Library of Latvia is a striking modern building on the opposite side of the Daugava River.

The Riga Cathedral towers over most of the buildings around it. Once Catholic it is now an Evangelical Lutheran church. It traces its beginnings back to 1211.

the black roof of riga cathedral stands well above most buildings in the old town

Riga Central Market

Another striking feature observable from St Peter’s are four World War One zeppelin hangars.

These today make up Riga’s Central Market.

A good place to pick up some local delicacies.

Blackheads House

Back in Vecriga there are some beautifully restored buildings. The Blackheads House is particularly striking. The original building was constructed in 1344 as a guild hall for unmarried German merchants known as Blackheads. It was bombed in 1941, and its reconstruction was completed in 2001 for Riga’s 800th birthday.

The Blackheads chose as their patron saint St Maurice, the patron of young men and soldiers. He was a 3rd century black Christian born in Egypt, who was the commander of a 6000 strong Christian army. He was executed by the Roman Emperor for his beliefs.

It is his image that adorns the building.

There is a very good museum inside.

It was here we also sampled a traditional Latvian drink called black balsam, which is usually made from blackcurrants.

black balsam o’clock. It was actually about 10am. But what the hell, when in Latvia……

The Blackheads House sits on one side of a square, opposite a giant RIGA sign with an incongruous labrador dog on top. We’re sure there is a good reason for this, but we didn’t find out what it is.

Alberta Iela

We took a short stroll out of the Vecriga passing through a pleasant park with some busy boats.

And passed a pro-Ukrainian monument.

Arriving at Alberta Iela. This is a street renowned for its art nouveau architecture.

The street is full of residential buildings, shops and restaurants.

All built in a similar style.

Some with quirky features.

If you’re into art nouveau architecture this is the street for you.

On our way back to the old town we passed the gold-roofed Nativity of Christ Cathedral.

Back at Vecriga

We spent a pleasant couple of days exploring Riga’s old town and surrounds.

We even found some cheerful singing children.

And a busy outdoor market.

Rundale Palace

Just over 80 kms or one hour’s drive south of Riga is Rundale Palace, Latvia’s most ornate and spectacular architectural wonder. A visit starts with a ten-minute walk from the car park to the entrance through the pleasant outer grounds.

Finally, the entrance is reached.

With the full splendour of the palace’s vast façade revealed.

Built by the Duke of Courland in the 18th century as a monument to over-the-top extravagance, it was inspired by Versailles and the Winter Palace of St Petersburg.

Visitors are adorned with attractive blue shoe covers to protect the floors.

You can pay for a guided tour, or do as we did, and just wander about.

There are plenty of interpretation signs in English.

The gardens are very well maintained and impressive.

Who doesn’t love a bit of topiary?

And there’s a labyrinth.

Rundale Palace is too vast and extravagant for us to try and explain here, so here’s a link to the palace’s website if you want more details.

You can easily visit Rundale Palace as a day trip from Riga, but as we were heading south anyway, we called in for a couple of hours on our way to our third and final Baltic State - Lithuania.